Tre Cime Parking and Bus: How to Book, the Refund Catch, and the Free Parking Trick

The Tre Cime di Lavaredo is one of the most famous hikes in the Dolomites. Even in June it was packed with hikers from all over Europe and the US. I've never seen so many campervans in my life.

If you're driving, the parking at the top is the first thing to sort out. Here's what I learned, including the mistake that sent me searching the night before.

Tre Cime parking is reservation only

Driving up to Rifugio Auronzo, where the hike starts, needs an online reservation. It costs €40 per car for a 12-hour slot, and the fee covers both the toll road and the parking.

You might see empty spaces up there, but it doesn't matter. Spaces are sold by time slot, and you'll be stopped long before you can look for one.

When I went, staff stood at the bottom of the road, next to the bus stop, and asked every driver "Do you have a reservation?" They barely looked at anything. I didn't see a barrier myself. But the official site says the gate reads your license plate automatically, so don't count on bluffing your way in.

Rental car tip: You won't know your plate when you book. That's fine. You can add it by 11:59pm the day before, and you can only change it once, so type it carefully.

The refund catch

You can cancel for free until 5 days before. After that you don't get your money back, even if the weather is awful. The only exception is if the road is officially closed. I read plenty of reviews from people who lost their money to bad weather.

If €40 doesn't hurt, book two days in a row as weather insurance.

How to book Tre Cime parking

Book on the official Auronzo site. The page shows a huge mountain photo first, so scroll down. I thought I was on the wrong site. You also need to create an account. It's annoying, but it's the only way.

How early? When I checked at the start of July, mid-August weekday slots at 9:30 were still open. Weekends go faster. I'd book the day you decide to go.

Is it worth it? When I went, the bus from the bottom was about €10 per person return. For four people, the €40 car park costs the same.

My mistake: staying in Auronzo

I booked an Airbnb in Auronzo and assumed I'd take the bus. Going up was fine. Coming down, the first bus left at 4:15pm. Not great with parents who wake up at 6.

The night before, I searched frantically and found a fix: park for free at Lake Misurina and take the bus up from there. Yes, I'd rented a car and ended up on a bus anyway. You adapt. The car park was free and safe, no problems at all. Google Maps

The Tre Cime bus from Dobbiaco

If you stay in Dobbiaco (Toblach), the 444 shuttle runs from there straight to Rifugio Auronzo. You need to book it online too.

The afternoon trick

Another blogger had a better idea. Morning slots sell out, but slots from about 4pm are easy to get. Most people leave by 2pm, so they had the trail almost to themselves and watched an amazing sunset.

The hike takes about 4 hours round trip with photos, so arriving around 3:30 gives you the best light with fewer people. In peak season mornings, the crowds make good photos hard. Without my parents, this is exactly what I'd do.

The hike

Walking straight to the classic three-peaks view, no stops, takes about an hour and ten minutes. You'll obviously stop for photos and snacks, so plan for 4 hours round trip. My parents, both in their 70s, did it slowly with no hiking boots and no poles.

You can also walk up from the bottom instead of taking the bus. It takes at least an hour, so it's doable if you're in your 20s or a keen hiker. But it's all asphalt anyway, so you might as well take the bus. While we waited in line, a group of teenagers walked past the line toward the road. A couple of American women shouted "Get in line!" The kids laughed and called back that they were walking. An hour later we saw them at the top.

We made sandwiches and brought them up, and I'd pack more snacks next time. The rifugio food is pizza and bread, and by then I was sick of both.

Honestly, I liked some of the other views more than the three peaks themselves. I don't know what any of them are called. That's both the frustrating and the fun part of the Dolomites.

What I'd do next time

Book a 10am slot. Walk up slowly and take photos. Bring lunch and plenty of snacks. Bring a picnic mat, sit in the shade, talk, take more photos, and stay until around 5. Sunset is very late in summer, so I probably wouldn't last that long, but 5 feels right.

And I'd have that beer at the rifugio. Weirdly, that's what I regret most.

Planning the rest of the trip? Here's the route we drove: Should you rent a car for the Dolomites?

Found this helpful? I write honest travel guides like this, mostly about Korea. Here's everything I'd sort out before a trip there. Some are affiliate links, so if you book through them I earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. It's what keeps these guides free.

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