Is Valencia Boring? One Slow Day at Mercado Central and the City of Arts and Sciences

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People say Valencia is boring. Honestly, there isn't that much to do here, and that's exactly why I liked it. It was the first half of our Spain trip, before Barcelona, and it's where we really chilled and relaxed. We had two easy days here. Squeezed together, this is the one day I'd do. (September 2022, prices and hours checked for 2026.)

Morning: the old town

Walk through the old streets, under the palm trees and past the old buildings, and you reach the City Hall square before you know it. It's just Europe, in the best way.

We stopped at a terrace on one of the plazas for a beer, and they gave us popcorn for free. I wanted three or four more, but there was sightseeing to do (and my wife). Haha.

Before 3pm: Mercado Central

The market was so good and so fun. It's a bit crowded, but there are so many things to eat, see and drink. There are loads of wine sellers pouring by the glass, and if you start drinking whatever they recommend, you will get drunk. Hahaha.

We had lunch at Central Bar inside the market. It was good, not mind-blowing. With so much else to eat around you, don't over-order there.

• Monday to Saturday, about 7:30am to 3pm, closed Sundays. Some stalls close even earlier, so go before lunch, not after.

Afternoon: City of Arts and Sciences, no ticket needed

I couldn't remember the name of this place the whole time. It's the City of Arts and Sciences. It was super beautiful and felt like I was in a movie or something.

We didn't go into any of the museums. Walking around outside is free, so we just relaxed, watched the water, enjoyed the sun and took photos. Half a day is about right.

Laundry day

Halfway through a two-city trip we needed clean clothes, so we found a self-service laundromat. Honestly, it wasn't a great experience. But if you're travelling for more than a week you'll end up in one, so it's good to know they're around.

Dinner: steak at Grillo

If you only do one proper dinner, this is the one I'd pick. At Grillo Grill Bar they bring the raw cuts to your table so you can choose. The meat was juicy and full of flavour, the service was good and the price was fair. We over-ordered and still felt fine afterwards.

Where I stayed: Original Domino House

It felt like a home on a local street, very cozy and nice. I only took one photo of the lobby, but that's what the whole place feels like. The building used to be a domino factory (1918 to 1971), which is where the name comes from.

Valencia to Barcelona by train

That's how we went on to Barcelona.

• Renfe runs all the direct trains. The fast Euromed takes about 2h40 to 3h10, and the slower Talgo or Intercity takes about 3h20 to 3h50.
• Check your station. Euromed leaves from Valencia Joaquín Sorolla, but Talgo and Intercity leave from Valencia Estació del Nord, a different building. Every train arrives at Barcelona Sants.
• Booking opens about 60 days ahead, and prices go up as you get closer, so book early.

Valencia or Barcelona?

Barcelona is for the famous sights, and the crowds that come with them. Valencia is where you catch your breath. One night is enough, or two if you just want to rest.

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